Ep 073 – 28th April 2015: Greedo “Shoots First”

The Repacked Podcast is a weekly podcast about Toys, Action Figures, Dolls, Brick-toys and all that plastic crack that we, your hosts, spend waaaay too much of our hard earned cash on.
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I appear to have fallen ILL.
That said, the show must go on and I have edited today’s episode before collapsing! Hurrah!
Thankfully, this week we’ve got yet another awesome Karaoke rendition of an eighties toy franchise that was really fun to put together.
One-Take-Wonders, we’ve been these past weeks and I think it’s really working out and is both fun for us to record as well as (I hope) fun for you, dear listener, to laugh at us 😀
A semi-lengthy episode this week, including a CHUNK that is spoileriffic for the now-released in the USA Avengers: Age Of Ultron film. Please take note of the spoiler times if you have yet to watch the movie!! I’ve set it up as a separate chapter in the m4a audio and also inserted the specific timings where the spoilers end! (29:29!) Otherwise, enjoy the show, and hopefully I’m well enough to be on the show tomorrow, kids.

Good night and keep listening.
-Albie

Please email the show at questions@repackedpodcast.com
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Click here for MP3 version

Chapter List
00:00:00.000 Intro – Ep 73: Greedo “Shoots First”
00:14:11.000 Age of Ultron SPOILER SECTION
00:29:29.180 Acquisitions – Albie
00:47:10.070 Intermission
00:48:30.150 Listener Questions 1 – King
00:53:26.230 Listener Questions 2 – Joseph
01:04:48.180 News – Albie
01:37:20.180 News – Kyle
01:51:08.140 News – Paul
02:20:31.180 News – Craig
02:36:55.130 Ending and Outro
02:38:23.120 Outtakes

ACQUISITIONS
Albie
073_03_Acq_Albie
Star Wars Black Series Han
Star Wars Black Series Leia
Star Wars Black Series Greedy Mcfingers
Star Wars Black Series Boba McPimp

LISTENER QUESTIONS
From King:
Dear Repacked,

Aesthetics vs functionality.
Sculpt & paint / accuracy or articulation?
Which is more important to you and WHEN is one more important than the other?

Articuladerci.


Hi guys,

First time writer long time Lister all around big fan. With the combiner wars stuff here I wanted to try out panel lining, Craig albi and any one else what kind of markers or pens you guys use? And for repaints whats the best paint I can use on transformers? Toys ahoy thanks guys..

Joseph from Florida very sunny lol


Albie’s response:
Hey Joseph!

Thought I’d do a group reply, then Craig will be able to chime in on this, too! Also, I figured I’d reply to this so you actually get the links back to you in an email as opposed to the show notes!

Firstly, I recommend getting them from somewhere cheapish. BBTS doesn’t seem to stock them any longer, so the next best would be a place like HLJ. Given how the US dollar is doing at the moment, I think it’ll be a good place to get the markers from.
Here’s HLJ’s Gundam Markers section. Note that a bunch of them are backordered- it just means that you’ll have to wait a bit before they come back in stock. Make sure that if you put an order through though, that you choose the ‘private warehouse’ method so that they accumulate all the stuff for you before sending things out!!
https://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist/?SeriesID=664

PANEL LINING
Now, panel lining. You can do what Craig does, which is just panel line everything with black, or you can try what I do, which is pick the panel line colour based on the colour of the actual toy you’re lining.

Before we get started, there’s a very handy tutorial already online that I’ve referred to in the past:
http://www.gunpla101.com/panel-lining-for-gunpla-101/
and http://blog.gundamplanet.com/gundam/how-to-paint-gundam-marker-vol-01-ink-drawing-paint/

The 2nd link there talks briefly about using different colours for the different coloured plastic you’re lining on.
The recommendation is essentially to use grey panel liner on white plastic as the contrast between the white and grey is less stark than a black and white contrast. I agree with this personally but I’m pretty sure Craig exclusively panel lines with black and it still looks great. No right/wrong answer here. Matter of preference.
Brown panel lines are used on gold plate and red plastic according to the tutorial. I’d personally use it on lighter colours like orange and yellow also.

Panel Lining pen links:
Black:
Extra Fine Tip: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM301P/Sup
Fine Tip: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM01/Sup
Gray:
Extra Fine tip: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM302P/Sup
Fine Tip: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02/Sup
Brown:
Extra Fine: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM303P/Sup
Fine Tip: https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM03/Sup
Set of multiple colours: (no Black)
https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZAM122/Sup

“Painting” with Gundam Markers:
Gundam Marker SEED Set:
https://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGMS109/Sup
This one is a good introductory set I think, it’s got some PRIMARY colours that are typically found on quite a few TFs, hey?
Here’s a tute on using gundam markers:
http://blog.gundamplanet.com/gundam/how-to-paint-gundam-marker-vol-02-paint-with-gundam-marker/
Got some easy illustrations that helps this stuff make sense!

The thing with Gundam markers for painting of course is that you won’t necessarily get the smooth consistent finish you’d get with say, an airbrush. While the layers of paint tend to be a lot thinner (alchohol based), depending on the colour and the way the paint has been mixed inside the marker, it doesn’t feel as consistent over larger areas of plastic.

“NORMAL” painting
(Kyle, I expect you’ll have some input here, too!)

If you want to get into more extensive repaints, it’s important to prepare the surface you’re painting on. Typical advice is to do a warm soapy water wash to get rid of any residue from the mould release fluid used in the factory (BE CAREFUL OF SCREWS! THEY WILL RUST! DISASSEMBLE FIRST!). Another important step (in my opinion) is to give the surface you’re going to paint a very light sanding using a very light grit sandpaper. (the higher the number, the lighter the grit. I recommend 600-800 grit sandpaper for this as you don’t want to make hard cuts into the plastic using the sandpaper, we’re just making the surface a have a little bit more texture for the paint to ‘grip’ onto.

Primer is also important. I recommend buying a can of tamiya white primer when the final ‘top layer’ is going to be a lighter colour. Unsure where online is best to get as it’s an aerosol:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-maintenance-material-62000/surface-primer-l-white-87044
Alternatively you could also use gray primer:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87064

Main difference between using the two is what the top colour is going to be. The lighter it is, the more you’ll want to use white.
Careful not to go too many layers of this, though. You don’t need your figure looking start white to begin painting… unless you’re painting it white like the Ratchet I painted for Mr Kyle recently, where I primed the red bits until it was white, then went over with pearlescent white!

Once you have the surfaces primed and or prepped, you can then head on to actually painting the sucker. I use a large range of random paint types that I find locally. Typically, I use Acrylic paints and it’s been fine by me. For transformers in particular I’ve always liked painting them with Tamiya Acrylic paints. (they come in little pots) They tend to give a nice glossy finish when it dries! Make sure that you get some thinner (or just use a little bit of water) to thin down the paint a little before painting. You may have to experiment with this a bit but I always do recommend thinning down the paint a little before painting. This simply prevents the layers of paint from building up too thickly, too quickly and prevents the final finish from looking too caked. Note that you can of course paint straight from the pot! Colours like silver, gold or copper I tend to go straight from the pot and onto the figure as they don’t thin the best (depends on brand)

OKAY. Just some initial thoughts. I’m sure the other two painting dudes will have some input. I also didn’t cover JOINT RUB. I’ll have to find the visual tute online I’ve referred to many-a-time and send it to you. Essentially, wherever there’s going to be two pieces of plastic rubbing against each other, most typically joints, disassemble the joint if you can and sand down the plastic a bit (doesn’t need to be crazy, the idea is to do just enough so that the paint that goes on top brings it back to what it was pre-sanding as we then will avoid the paint from rubbing off!)

Thanks for the email and I hope this sets you off on the dangerous path of customising! Have FUN with it 🙂

Regards,
Albs


NEWS
Albie
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Perfect Effect add ons
Botcon reveals: Oilmaster
Botcon reveals: “the boss”
DX9 Crasher
Fan voted Combiner
MMC Greatshot
Mentioned
Diamond Select Toys Photos from C2E2 – Aliens, Gotham, Marvel and More
More C2E2 Photos – Even More Diamond Select Toys

Kyle Barker
073_08_News_KyleS
Guardians of the Galaxy 5 Pack Entertainment Earth Exclusive
Previews Exclusive Mortal Kombat X 6-Inch Figure Variants
Hot Toys Teases Star Wars: A New Hope Luke and Leia Figures
SH Figuarts Fire Mario and Diorama Set D Super Mario Figures
ToyWorld Reveals “Swoop” Prototype

Paul (Igadevil)
073_09_News_PaulS
SH Figuarts Kivala official Pics and price
Sh Figuarts Decade re-make previewed
SHF Double Machine
66 Action Kamen Rider Part 7
Complete Selection Modification Series Diend Driver & Diend Belt + Diend Card Binder
http://p-bandai.jp/item/item-1000097284/
http://shishioh.info/SHF_STORM_TROOPER.php
http://blog.livedoor.jp/hacchaka/archives/51947388.html

Craig (TheScreamMan)
073_10_News_CraigS
SH Figuarts Darth Maul Official Pics and Price
Bandai Hi-Metal R 1/100 Armored Valkyrie
Mattel, WB and DC Comics Team Up For DC Super Hero Girls
Three Zero Titanfall Sryder

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